Here are a few pictures of a coil I wound earlier today. I have tried to make these before, thinking they were a good idea. The first ones I made, I Claptonized them. They turned out looking like a bird’s nest and were not very aesthetically pleasing. They did work, however I did not attempt winding up any more of them for quite some time. I remembered, in the back of my mind, that the next time I try to make those, I would take the time to pull them tight so they would not have so many shorts and would also look nicer. I pulled these pretty tight, however I could have pulled them even tighter and will if I ever fashion a few more.
The first photo is of the coils before I primed the toxins from them. I did not clean the coils for them to be shiny for the photo, however I did clean them before trying them out. The RDA is the Baal V2 RDA, and the wire consists of six strands of 26 gauge Nichrome 80. I drill-twisted two 30″ strands and then clipped them to 10″ lengths. I twisted the very ends of the wire together with two pliers and twisted the end to a secured wood screw to braid them. When making these, be sure to pull the wire perpendicular to the braid and pull it snug, or the braid will be too loose. The ohms reading was 0.12 ohms. I was happy to see that the coils did not have a lower resistance, as it was largely a guess as to whether I would be able to use both of them instead of one. I wound them around a #5 coil rod and imagine a #4, making smaller coils, would decrease the resistance below .1 ohms. Needless to say, I was happy that the resistance was just high enough to register on the IPV4s display.
Here is a photo of a braid I clipped off one of the coils upon its installation. I think 26 gauge wire is probably a good choice for this kind of a coil, even though I did consider using 28 gauge resistance wire.
Here is a photo of the braid coils after I primed and formed them, before I cleaned them. I was worried that once they were primed their resistance would decrease. It actually increased a little, and they work well at 60 watts with the resistance of 0.16 ohms. Though it looks like the coils in the picture do not have ‘clearance’ for the tube of the atty, I eventually carefully formed them to where they fit properly. Such a thing can be tricky to do, however I was able to get them in place without breaking the leads of the coils from their posts. I was sure to tighten the negative posts first in order to fit the positive post well.
Even though I already primed the coils, I heat them up one more time for the next two photos. The coils did heat up in the middle first, which is somewhat of a requirement for properly working coils. In order for them to heat properly, I used a pair of ‘ceramic’ tweezers during their priming. I also carefully used a pair of round coil pliers to form them into their near cylindrical shape.
The first of the two photos shows the coils getting hotter than they ever would during normal use for pleasure vaping.
The photo below shows the coils getting about as hot as they can, in order to ensure the wire is free of most toxins. The coils did survive this much heat. We can see them getting hot in the middle.
In conclusion, thank you for viewing these photos. What is the reasoning behind a braided coil of this nature? Well, there are a few. For one, when one drops e-liquid onto them, it will seep directly through the coil and into the organic cotton. A second reason is that they can be made without Claptonizing, which takes time. Of course one could braid Clapton wire, however I enjoyed the notion of the ‘nude’ wire for this build. I installed the cotton and vaped with some strawberry e-juice. The coils worked great and the clouds were acceptable -good enough for my planing to use this build for a few days. Thank you again for reading. We always enjoy feedback and/or questions. The diamond below is a link to a coil video by an advanced coil building master, Squidoode on Youtube.