After building many different coils, I realized I had not wound up an inception coil. RipTrippers has a pretty good video on how to do them, here. If you have ever tried to wind one of these up, you may have found it hard to find a small tube or a syringe. The technique I used to wound them up uses a #2 coil rod and a piece of cardboard, and it works great. I have included a bunch of photos on how to do the Inception Coil. The video link above shows a build with Kanthal – I chose to use Nichrome 80 instead, and it works great. I also built a few of them with Clapton wire, and they work good, too.
I will include some photos and instructions on how do make Inception coils, below. The basic idea is to have a small coil within a larger coil with only one wire. The wicking of an Inception Coil is important. In order for the concept to work successfully, an Inception Coil should have organic cotton in the central coil and around the outer coil. Another way to do it is to put the cotton in between the two coils, leaving the inner coil open, and then wrap cotton around the outer coil (* see paragraph towards the bottom of this post). Either way, you want air to show either from the inner coil or the space between the inner and outer coil. This way, the heat from the coil shoots the vapors from the coil, preferably towards the air intake of the RDA. This technique allows for maximum vapor production.
This first photo shows the 24 gauge Nichrome 80 I used to make some Inception Coils.
You can also see some tools in the photo. In order to do a build similar to this one, you may want a Coil Jig and some pliers. The rod I chose to make these with is the #2 rod, or the second-to-smallest. These tools come in handy for many coils. You will also need a piece of cardboard or material similar to it. The cardboard I used came from a package of t-shirts, and the tape I used came from the Dollar Tree (most any thin tape will do). To do Clapton Inception Coils, you will need a drill or pre-wound Clapton wire, however the basic concept of constructing an Inception Coil does not need a drill.
The next photo shows the first inner coil, a piece of cardboard, and a coil jig. Wrap the inner coil with eight to ten loops. I think I went with nine or ten; what is important is that the inner coil is a mm or two longer than the coil it will be inside of.
The next photo shows the piece of cardboard cut into proper size with a piece of tape on it. This technique is easier than using a small metal tube from a hobby store, depending on availability. You can also add length to the cardboard if you are trying to increase the size of the outer coil – no need to, though. To decrease the size of the outer coil, use a piece of paper with tape instead of cardboard. The way I did it in the photos works fine. You can also see some ‘cone’ pliers in the picture. These are great for shaping the coil to perfection upon its installation. The purpose of the photo below is to show the first step in getting the cardboard ready. It should wrap around the inner coil at least once. If it wraps around exactly twice, your outer coil may be too large. If it wraps around 1 1/2 times, it will be about the right size. Will the wraps be exact circles? No, however they will be very very close and it will be hard to tell. The functionality of the coil will not be compromised.
This next photo shows the inner coil with cardboard taped around it. It is nearly ready to be wrapped with the outer coil. One thing that can be tricky is holding the bottom lead while wrapping the outer coil. You can use pliers to hold the rod and the lead, however I twisted the lead snug to the rod and inserted them both into the jig to wrap the outer coil. To do it that way, you will want to clip of some of the lower lead in order for it to fit into the jig. Remember to leave at least 1/2 inch if possible. The installation of the coil is easiest with some length on the coil’s leads, even if the length is short to begin with.
This next photo shows the outer coil wrapped around the inner coil. The lower lead is still long; for this first coil I did not use the jig to wrap the outer coil. The outer coil can be five, six, or seven wraps. I prefer ten wraps on the inner coil and seven wraps on the outer coil. As long as the outer coil has at least four wraps and the inner coil has at least seven, it will still work well. The coil below has seven wraps on its outer coil. One thing that can be important, especially if you are doing a dual Inception Coil build, is to make sure that the number of wraps you use for the inner and outer coils match each Inception coil. For instance, if you wound one coil with ten wraps on the inner coil and seven on the outer coil, the next coil should have ten wraps on the inner coil and seven on the outer. This is so they will heat up at the same time and in the same rate. If the number of wraps for each Inception Coil is different, one may heat up and the other one will remain stagnant, to where it does not produce vapor in under five seconds.
So now you have the coil wound and there is still a piece of cardboard taped inside of it. You must remove the cardboard carefully so as not to lose the form of the outer coil. Simply raise the outer lead a little to loosen its grip on the cardboard. Next, pull the cardboard out with needle-nose pliers or normal tweezers, as in the photo below. Then, you can slide the cardboard off of the inner lead and discard it.
These next photos show the Inception coil.
The second coil for this build was made just like the first one, and here are some photos of it.
The needle in the photo was used to aid in carefully removing the piece of cardboard and to straighten the inner coil, some. The needle is not necessary, however the pliers or some tweezers are. Unless you have some pretty well-kept finger nails, you will want to remove the cardboard with a tool of some sort. The teeth on the needle-nose pliers in the photo made removing the cardboard pretty easy.
The photo below shows both Inception Coils before they were primed of their toxins. Notice the outer coil on the right has some gaps in between its wraps. It is better to not have those gaps, however they can be taken out upon the coil’s priming. These were built to install in the Shark RDA, which has a bottom feed air flow design.
The photo below is of a Clapton Inception Coil in the Shark RDA while being primed. Its wire combination was 36 gauge Nichrome 80 wrapped around 24 gauge Nichrome 80.
Here is a photo of the same coil after it was primed. I did do two of these for a dual coil build in a Cylapex Gate RDA with 36/24g N80 and they worked fine.
The next photos show an inception coil in the Zorro RDA, a great RDA for small Chimney Coils due to its bottom air flow capability. The first photo shows the coil wicked properly. There is organic cotton in the inner coil, as well as OC wrapped around the outer coil which extends to the bottom of the drip well. It may appear difficult to get the cotton into the inner coil. It is not. Simply pull a length of cotton thin and twist it on the end, clipping off the end of the fibers. To see the appropriate way of installing the wick, watch the video link mentioned towards the first part of the post. There are also a couple of photos towards the bottom of the post which show the wicking of an Inception Coil.
The next photo shows the Zorro RDA with an inception coil. The cotton was removed for cleaning and storing the RDA. This coil was wound with 24 gauge Nichrome 80 and had a resistance of 0.34 ohms.
These next few photos show the Cylapex Gate RDA with a dual Inception Coil Build. The first photo shows the build just as it was being primed.
The next photo shows the coil build before it was primed. The coils are shiny and in place. The inner coil lead connects to the negative post. So long as the inner coil heats up first and the coil is wicked properly, the coil will work how it is intended to.
This is a photo of the Cylapex Gate RDA installed on the iPV4s. The Inception Coils did not touch the tube of the RDA. You may notice that they were not aimed towards the air holes of the RDA, which is part of the technique of an Inception coil. As these coils shoot huge vapors directly up, I did not worry too much about them being aimed towards the large air holes on the side of the RDA.
The next two photos are of the Dual Inception Coil build cooling down after the coils were primed from most of their toxins.
These last two photos show the wicking of an inception coil in the Cylapex Gate RDA.
Notice, there is cotton in the inner coil, as well as around the outer coil. I did manage to aim the coil towards an air hole, and it vaped nicely. You may be wondering why there is only one coil in the above two photos. It is because one of the coils shorted out while I was priming them. I decided to just use one coil instead of wounding another one. The coil that melted on me shorted out, because I did not notice part of the inner coil touching the bottom of the outer coil’s lead. Be careful to make sure the inner and outer coils do not touch each other where their leads come out of the bottom of the coil to ensure that it does not create a short.
The coil in the two photos above was made with 24 gauge Nichrome 80 and had a resistance of 1 ohm. A dual build of this nature will have the approximate resistance of 0.5 ohms.
I did a few builds after taking these photos. One was a dual Inception Coil build with Clapton wire, a Nichrome 80, 26/36 gauge combination, with the resistance of .72 ohms in a Cylapex Gate RDA. I also did a couple of single coil builds with Clapton Inception coils. One was with 24g and 36g Nichrome 80. It had the resistance of .92 ohms. As far as these coils went, I found the 26 gauge variation to be easier to do, as the coils were easier to install in the Cylapex Gate RDA.
* In order to properly install organic cotton between the inner and outer coils of a 24 gauge Nichrome 80 Inception Coil, first, wound and prime the coil. Then, unwrap all but one wrap of the outer coil. Wrap a rectangle of the cotton around the inner coil, leaving the inside of it open to where you can see all the way through it. Re-wound the outer coil to be in place as it was before, and then you can wrap some cotton around the outside of the coil, as well. This may be a tricky process, however it is sure to work well.
Something that is also a little tricky is a ‘staged’ Inception Coil. I have not built one, yet, however I am sure the idea would work. I will probably try it out first with a strand of 26 gauge Kanthal ran parallel with a 26/36 gauge Nichrome 80 Clapton wire. Using the same techniques as described above, such a notion should be possible, even for a dual coil build. It may take a while to do, however I am sure such a build will make for some super-awesome vapor clouds with maximum flavor.
In conclusion, Inception Coils are fun to make and do not take too much time, once you figure out how to do them. They produce large flavorful vape clouds. You can wound them with Clapton wire or different gauges of wire. They can be wound with Kanthal, Nichrome 80, or other wires; be sure to always check the resistance of your coils before using them on a mechanical mod. Once you have an Inception Coil wicked and ready to go, when you fire it up and see the vapors shoot out of it, you will know you did it right. Thank you for reading, and have a nice day.