Here are five coil photos I have been meaning to post for weeks. These first two photos are of a coil that actually worked in a preferable manner, even though I ordered the wire and built the coil more or less as a novelty adventure.
I call the coil in the two photos above the “Super Macro.” It is 16 gauge Nichrome 80, found here. You may notice I had to use extra length on the leads to increase the resistance of the wire. Is the wire easy to work with? No way. I nearly broke my pliers getting it wound into a coil and was unable to perform the task of a hand wound nail coil. No complaints, though, it works like a dual 12-wrap 24 gauge Nichrome 80 build, (one of my favorites).
The insane coil in the photo above is installed in a 24mm Temple RDA, an awesome choice amongst the hundreds of available RDAs. I must say, before I continue, if you see the 30mm Temple RDA and get excited for its looks and price, I recommend trying out the 22mm or 24mm first (or checking out the post design before completing your order) -especially if you are on a tight budget. Why? Because of the screws. With the RDA in the link above, one can install whatever kind of coil (or coils) they want and the screws will not hinder the tube which houses the build. With the 30mm version, advanced coils will not fit and you may have to use the Goon RDA or another option to utilize pretty coils which take up more space than 24 gauge Nichrome 80 ideas.
This next coil is what I like to call a bridge variation and was inspired from a Twisted Messes build, here. Thanks, as always, to the coil masters of Twisted Messes. Thanks, too, to Squidoode and Zophie. I learned to do 4-braid coils with her video – Squidoode shows us how to do plenty of advanced coils that do not take too much time or patience, as well as plenty that do (there is no staple coil on coilpix, as of yet). I have yet to justify some of the coils Squidoode and Twisted Messes do, yet they look awesome on Instagram. 🙂
The whole reason for a bridge coil such as the one in the photo above is the resistance. This was a fused Clapton, 36/24g n80, with 26g Kanthal wrapped around it for a staged heating effect. You may want to build an awesome coil which uses more than one or two kinds of wire, yet you can only use one coil because it reads something like .12 Ω. That kbox 120w still has not come in yet (which will activate down to .05 ohms), and you still just have not found the deal you were looking for on a Sigelei Fuchai (that or they were sold out). What can be a solution to this problem? More wire. Plenty of times it is preferable to spread out a coil in order to increase the resistance -it is done with Ni200 in Chinese factories. With a bridge variation, however, you can build the coil you want and still use it on, say, an IPV4s (long live its existence). Bridge variations may add on some to ramp-up time; I usually prefer to stick with a single coil. There are those builds, however, that work great as bridge variations. The technique is also an option for super low in resistance wire with a low number gauge.
The two photos above are of ‘staged heating’ coils. I have played around, before, with staged heating and had to look up some old videos when I decided to build a few of them. They perform awesomely and can be done plenty of ways. The coil above is done with an attempt with ‘tidal wire.’ I say “attempt,” because I found it difficult to do. I do have some pliers which are flat on the inside and even tried the technique with vegetable oil as well as e-juice/vg. It did not work out easily for my current skill level. The wire still wound, though, and the small wire got hot before the big one, which was what I was trying to do.
Can you wind a staged coil without seeing a noticeable difference? Sure. Plenty of parallel builds result in staged heating behavior. One of the easiest is 24 gauge Nicrome 80 wound parallel with 24 gauge Kanthal, 8 wraps total for each coil in a dual coil build. The coil above is a fused Clapton with tidal wire wrapped parallel. The tidal wire is the small twisted wire, 28 gauge Nichrome 80, and the fused Clapton is 24g n80 with 36g n80 wound around a the two 24g wires. The Tidal wire works great yet takes a little time to do.
Due to time, even when I want a coil to vape with like the one above, I usually straighten out a few strands of 24g n80 and fuse-Claptonize them with 36g n80. I then wind it parallel with 26g or 28g n80, and I have a suitable staged and fused coil. This option has been one of my preferred choices over the last few weeks, and I doubt I’ll come across something that outdoes it, in my opinion, anytime soon. Time-wise, 24g N80 coils are what I do when I am short on it, and the next post I plan to do is all about mind blowing efficiency. As far as advance coils go, however, the above described is the most efficient option I have discovered, so far. They just do not take as long to do as plenty of advanced coils, and what is more neato than orange stripes? Not a whole lot, depending on what may impress us novice artists.
Thank you for reading this post and any patience is and was appreciated. I am still awaiting more feedback and questions in regards to vaping. I use coilpix to post many of the coils I build and, if anyone ever wants to discuss vaping, this blog is here for that, too. Hope you liked the photos – vape on. 🙂