The above photo is of the first stabilized wood box mod I have built. I have vaped with plenty of different devices and did not know how to stabilize wood. I saw the nice photos of the mods on the web and did some research on how to stabilize wood, ordered some components and ended up building a mod. I will include the photos I took documenting its build within this post. There are many ways of stabilizing wood and I plan to continue on with a few more projects, eventually.
For this project, I put the wood under vacuum in Schlack from Lowes and ordered the components from Amazon. There are plenty of sites I perused while learning more about how to build a mod. Here is a helpful diagram from fogcity. Here is a video with a break bleader. Here is a mosfet build video with a parallel circuit. Here is a site for wood stabilizing.
The mod above uses a series circuit and does not currently utilize 15a fuses, though it may, eventually. It uses two 18650 high drains and hits so hard I pulse it for comfort. Enough words for now, lets see some photos.
The photo above is of the battery sled kit I found on Amazon and some left over wood I had from Home Depot from the shelves I made a few weeks ago, seen here. You can also see one of the diagrams I used for the construction of the mod – I re-drew it three or four times, even though it is a simple drawing.
Here is another photo of the wood and kit, along with the S1 component (or button) and a series circuit diagram.
The above photo was a quick picture I took of the wood in progress.
The photo below is of the wood after I sanded down with course sand paper, then once with a finer grit.
The next photo is of the wood under vacuum in Schlack. It is in a big pickle jar, with another jar weighting it down at an angle, as I only had 1 pint of Schlack. I used a break bleeder from Autozone to create a 17lb vacuum and left the wood under vacuum for 12 hours. The whole idea behind the vacuum is to watch air bubbles come out of the wood. As fun as it sounds (and was for me), the process does have a reasoning behind it. When the wood preserver, be it a hardener made by Minwax or lacquer or other stabilizing solution soaks into the wood, the wood will last much longer and will also be more resistant to water, sometimes less bendy. The vacuum helps speed up the process. I imagine if someone soaked a piece of wood in lacquer for over a year it would be stabilized with or without a vacuum.
The next photo shows the mosfet irlb3034prb chip, a semiconductor; the 520 connection; a 15k resistor prepared to be soldered to the mosfet; the battery sled; and the push button switch.
The photo below shows the wood drying after being taken out of vacuum.
The photo below shows the wood dry before I sanded it and after I baked it at 200°f for an hour.
The next photo shows the pressure gauge.
This next photo shows the stabilized wood after I sanded it with a course grit sand paper, as well as a file. The wooden handle of the file is my next project. I carved it round and stabilized it, even though it is a harder wood. It should still look nice with the final coat of poly.
Here is a photo of the wood after I coated it with Clear Coat Minwax Polyurethane. I think the wood looks nice.
Here is a photo of the wood after I sanded off the poly with a finer grit sand paper -a technique I learned from speaking with a man at the lumber store. When speaking of the shelves, he said they would come out best if I sand them with a course grit sand paper, coat them, let them dry, sand them with a finer grit sand paper, and apply the final coat.
The next photo is of the battery sled being placed. I probably could have made the box smaller, however I did not know if the wood would be strong enough for thin walls, and I also did not know how much space I would end up needing for the upper wiring. The photo also shows the wood with its final coat.
This next photo is a picture of my magnificent skill with soldering. I just am not very good at it, even though I know how to do it the right way and have tried to get better with the skill for years. I did try to keep from having too many bends in the wiring. I used 16 gauge copper for the bottom connection and 22 gauge copper for the upper wiring.
This next photo shows both the 510 connection and S1 installed. It was a bit tricky, yet not too hard to do. I installed the 510 and the button in the housing before I glued the wood together with super glue. I did not get the bottom aligned as well as I wanted – I’ll file it smooth or I won’t.
The next photo is of a 22 gauge coil in a Ball V2 RDA, which I thought would be perfect for this build. It was a little hot, albeit. I ended up going with a single fused Clapton, 24g n80, 36g Kanthal (pre-Claptoned wire from Lightning Vapes) with a 28 gauge strand of n80 running parallel for a single coil build. It read about .42 ohms on the ipv4s.
The next photo shows the mod nearly in completion. I am still waiting to get some magnets for the lid. The high drains are 40a and charge up to 4.2 volts, just like my 35a mxjos. I was happy to get the 40a batteries; I had not tried this kind out, before. You can see in the picture that I have the mod leaning up against its lid so it won’t fall over. One of my goals with the project was for it to be able to stand on its own. The weight of the batteries does not allow it to do so, so I may make a stand for it or sand the bottom or both.
I was happy that it even worked and did so safely. Its ramp-up time is very minimal, and the mosfet did not fry out when I soldered the resistor to it. I was afraid the wiring on the inside might over heat, but it does not. I think it has character, yet still looks nice. I am sure the next one I do will be better designed/sized. For now, I am happy with this device the way it is.
Here is the last photo, the first one in the post. It is of the finished stabilized wood mod. As I sawed a piece of a 1×12 in half to make the lid and the bottom, both are wavy on the outside. It might not be as neato as plenty of mods out there, however it works great and I like the way it looks.
Thank you for reading this post. Thank you to those on the forum who helped out with the design on Fasttech. If any of you from there read this, let me know what you think. Build safely, and, as always, vape on.