The Blue Mod

After making my first stabilized wood mod, I wanted to make another one which uses a volt meter and is smaller. I also wanted to see what Mixol blue dye with MinWax wood hardener looks like when used to stabilize hobby wood. In all honesty, this project took too much time and did not turn out the way I wanted it too, yet the mod ended up being able to work and it certainly has character.

When I first put together the mod, it did not turn on. I rebuilt it with a new mosfet chip, tested all connections of the circuit with a multi-meter, and it still did not work. I figured out the 510 connection had a ‘non connecting’ negative connection and solved the problem with some solder. The mod is boxy, and I have the volt meter wired to the rda, currently. At least it does not fall over; it usually reads 4.3 volts with newly charged 18650 high drains, so it is a pretty powerful device. Now that I have the 510 problem solved, I will probably re-wire the volt meter, eventually. I did take a bunch of photos as I constructed the mod, and they are below.

This first photo is of the battery sled and components.


This next one is of the hobby wood before I sawed it and the soldered irlb3034pbf mosfet with 15k resistor.


This next one shows I still have a lot to learn with soldering technique.


This next photo shows the wood before it was stabilized.


This photo shows the wood after I drilled and filed some grip grooves.


This photo was taken before I got a vacuum pump which can be plugged into the wall. You can see the break bleeder, which I was able to get up to over 14 lb of pressure; the pickle jar with the wood and blue dye and wood hardener; and the tube which sealed the vacuum. I got most of the bubbles out of the wood and let it sit for a day or two to soak.


This is the wood taken out of solution before it was baked at 200°f for an hour.


Here is a photo of the wood before it was sanded, after it was baked. Notice the crusty bubbles on the 510 connection hole. They indicate the hardener was dried and re-enforced the fibers of the wood.


This next photo shows the wood after it was sanded with a rough grit, then with a fine grit, sand paper. Then, it was coated with polyurethane clear coat for its luster.


Here is the mod in pieces before its first assembly. I simply did not have the skill to solder the 510 possitive pin to the connection; the 510 in the picture is not the same one I used to build the mod. The one I did use was the one which had a loose washer. Even though it was tight, it made no connection. I did not figure out why the mod would not activate until I re-built the entire circuit and soldered the negative on the 510. It does work, now. I assembled it with super glue, which may be more fragile than wood glue, yet seemed to work great for this project and is sturdy enough for now.


Here is a photo of the blue mod before its re-build.


Here is a photo of the rebuilt mod assembled without batteries in it. I only used two pairs of magnets for the lid, and it worked fine. Those little boogers were so strong they jumped out of their glue from an inch away; I had to re-glue them and let them dry for a while.


Here is the final photo of the blue mod which I built twice in order to get it working properly. Notice the in-line volt meter wire running up to the Baal V2 rda. I can re-wire it some other time. A fun project, I do not ever really plan on using this mod very often. At least not until I re-wire its volt meter.


Thank you for viewing this post and feel free to ask me any questions. Thank you for those who answered my questions on reddit and fastech forums. It is always reassuring to have someone confirm what is supposed to be correct and safe, circuit wise and coil resistance wise. The coil in the rda is a fused Clapton wound parallel, 2x24g Ni80 Cl.’d with 36g Ni80 and wound parallel with 28g Ni80 for staged heating, reads .15 ohms on an ohms reader. The volt meter reads about 4.3 volts when the mod is activated for over one second. It is a safe mod, despite its looks. When I re-wire the volt meter I will probably leave the single-coil build within the rda. Have a nice day. 🙂


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